Three days in Dikwella, a calm itinerary

Three days in Dikwella are enough for the beaches, a temple, the blowhole and a turtle or two, without hurrying. This plan keeps one bigger outing a day, in the cool of the morning, and gives the rest to the sea.

How does the plan work?

Each day has the same shape, because the climate asks for it.

• Early morning: the outing, while it is cool.
• Late morning to mid-afternoon: the beach, lunch and the shade.
• After four: something small, then dinner with the last light. The sun sets at about six all year.

The base for the beach hours is our own bay, Turtle Beach, less than five minutes by road from Hiriketiya. Swap the days as you like. If the sea is rough or the sky is grey, do the temples first.

Day one, the temple and the bay

The outing: Wewurukannala temple. It is about 1.5 km inland from Dikwella, a few minutes by tuk-tuk, and it takes about an hour. A seated Buddha about 50 metres tall looks over the palms, and behind it are rooms painted with the life of the Buddha and, in strong colours, the fate of people who behaved badly. Cover shoulders and legs, and take off shoes and hats. Go early, before the heat.

Breakfast. Be at our table before 11:00, when breakfast ends. The Yemeni Shakshuka, 3,250 LKR, is two soft eggs on a warm tomato sauce with cumin and paprika.

The beach hours. Choose a sunbed or a hammock. Then ask us for a snorkel mask, which we lend free, and go in for the first swim. Wild sea turtles often feed on the reef. Never touch, chase or feed one, and walk in where the sand is clear, because sea urchins live in the rocks.

Lunch. Something light after the swim: the Tuna Poke Bowl, 4,500 LKR, or the Ceviche Limeño, 5,700 LKR.

The evening. Stay where you are. For a first night, the Red Snapper for Two, 15,900 LKR, is a whole fish cooked on the bone, and it asks for time. If you would like the evening arranged for you, the Sunset & Dinner pass is on our passes page.

Day two, Hiriketiya and the blowhole

Before breakfast: Hiriketiya. Be in the bay by half past six, when the water is quiet. Take a surf lesson on the beach break in the middle of the bay, or sit on the sand and watch. By mid-morning it is busy, and that is your sign to leave.

The outing: the Hummanaya blowhole. It is at Kudawella, about 5 km from Dikwella, a drive of 10 to 15 minutes. The sea is pushed up through a crack in the rock and on a strong day shoots 25 to 30 metres into the air. It is strongest when the sea is rough, roughly from May to September, and can be quiet in the calm months. There is a small entrance fee and a climb of steps.

On the way back: Blue Beach Island. At Nilwella a white sandbar joins the shore to a small island. Look at the tide table first: at low tide you walk across dry. There is little shade, so do not stay through midday.

The beach hours. Come back to us for a late lunch. The Mahi Mahi Pineapple Curry, 6,900 LKR, is a grilled fillet under a golden curry of coconut milk and pineapple. Then sleep in the shade. You have earned it.

After four. On some afternoons there is a class or a workshop in our shala. Regular classes cost 4,000 LKR and workshops 5,000 LKR, and whoever joins an activity has 10% off the whole restaurant menu. What is on, and when, is on our events page.

Day three, the rock temple and a long goodbye

The outing: Mulkirigala. This is the big one, so start early. The rock temple is about 40 minutes inland from Dikwella. Cave temples with old paintings are built up the side of a rock about 200 metres high, and around 500 steps lead to the top. Leave at seven, climb while it is cool, and carry water. Dress as for any temple.

If 500 steps are not for you, take the morning slowly and walk Dikwella's long town beach in its place. Nothing is lost.

The beach hours. By late morning you are back at sea level and hungry. This is the day for the long lunch. The Ohana Seafood Platter, 18,900 LKR, is for two or three to share: a whole fish of the day from the grill with shrimps and more around it. Take two hours.

The last afternoon. One more swim with the mask. One more page of your book. A Ceylon Cinnamon Iced Tea, 1,200 LKR, when the light turns gold.

If you still have energy: turtles at night. At Rekawa, near Tangalle, a conservation project takes visitors to the beach from about 8 PM to watch for turtles coming ashore to nest. Only red light is used, and nothing is promised.

What else is on, on some days?

• Saturday is market day in Dikwella, next to the beach. Go early for fruit, and for a look at ordinary life.
• Any evening, on request, with enough people, we light a bonfire on the sand at sunset: the fire, and a quiet moment to look back at the days.
• Vinyasa for the Street Dogs, our charity class in the shala, gives all its contributions to two street-dog charities. Its days are on our events page.

What if it rains, or you have less time?

When it rains, move the temples to the wet hours and keep the beach for the dry ones. More ideas are in a rainy day in Hiriketiya and Dikwella.

With only one day, do day one. With five days, add nothing: repeat the day you liked most.

All the planning, from how to arrive to where to sleep, is in our Dikwella and Hiriketiya travel guide.

Good to know

• Ohana is at Turtle Beach, Dikwella, less than five minutes by road from Hiriketiya.
• We are open every day. Breakfast is served from 08:00 to 11:00, lunch and dinner from 11:00 to 21:00.
• Sunbeds are free for the whole day, one for each person, when each person spends 10,000 LKR on food and drinks; otherwise they cost 1,000 LKR an hour each. A towel comes with every sunbed.
• Snorkel masks are lent free. Filtered water is on the house.
• Prices are in LKR, plus a 10% service charge. No alcohol is served.