A slow day in Dikwella, hour by hour

A slow day in Dikwella is a walk at sunrise, a long breakfast, a sunbed in the shade, one swim, one fish and an early night. Here it is hour by hour, with nothing in it that needs a ticket or a queue.

What makes a day slow?

Three small rules, and you can break any of them.

• One place. Every move costs an hour of the day and some of its peace. Choose a bay and stay.
• The heat decides. Do things with your legs before ten and after four. Give the middle of the day to the shade.
• Nothing booked, except perhaps the table.

The place we know is our own: Turtle Beach, a calm round bay on the west side of Dikwella, less than five minutes by road from Hiriketiya. The day below is written there.

The early morning, a walk and a long breakfast

06:00, a walk before the heat. The sun comes up at about six all year. For an hour the light is soft and the sand is cool. Walk Dikwella's long town beach, or the sand in front of where you sleep. Take nothing with you. Then go back to bed for half an hour if you like. Nobody is counting.

08:00, breakfast that takes its time. We open at 08:00, and breakfast is served until 11:00, so there is no reason to hurry.

Start with a Flat White, 1,100 LKR, or a pot of Ceylon Tea, 700 LKR. Then choose one thing and eat it slowly. Milk Rice, 1,850 LKR, is what Sri Lanka cooks for every new beginning: red rice in coconut cream. The Sri Lankan Omelette, 2,400 LKR, is folded with onion, green chilli and curry leaf. The Papaya Curd Bowl, 2,300 LKR, is half a papaya filled with curd and our granola.

Sandy feet are welcome at the table.

The late morning, a sunbed and one swim

09:30, the sunbed and the first chapter. Choose a sunbed, a hammock or a cabana, with the palms over you. A sunbed is free for the whole day, one for each person, when each person spends 10,000 LKR on food and drinks; otherwise it costs 1,000 LKR an hour, towel included. On a day like this one, that takes care of itself.

Open the book. Look up now and then.

10:30, one swim. Go in before the sun is at its strongest. The bay is sheltered by a reef on the horizon, and wild sea turtles often feed on it. Ask us for a snorkel mask: we lend them free.

Two things to remember. Sea urchins live in the rocks, so walk in where the sand is clear. And if you meet a turtle, stay calm in the water and keep your distance. Never touch, chase or feed one.

Then drink a glass of water. Filtered water is on the house all day.

The middle of the day, lunch and the shade

12:30, a long lunch. The kitchen cooks to order, so lunch arrives when it is ready, and that is part of the plan.

For something light, the Gazpacho, 1,800 LKR, is cold and made for the midday heat, and the Papaya & Prawn Salad, 3,600 LKR, comes with a passion fruit and lime dressing. For something warm, the Sweet Prawn Curry, 6,700 LKR, is gentle on the chilli and rich with coconut milk. If you are two and hungry, share a Grilled Catch of the Day, 7,900 LKR, a whole snapper cooked on the bone. It takes 25 to 40 minutes on the grill, so order it early and take an hour over it.

Our food is not spicy unless the dish says so.

14:00, the hours that belong to the shade. Now do nothing, on purpose. This is the hottest part of the day, and the five beach dogs who live at Ohana have understood it: they lie flat in the shade until the sun is lower. Give them love, not your plate.

Sleep if sleep comes. Read if it does not. An After Sun, 1,700 LKR, is cucumber pressed with king coconut water and mint, and it is the right drink for this hour.

The late afternoon and an early dinner

16:00, something small. When the light turns gold, do one small thing.

• A second swim, shorter than the first.
• A Lemongrass & Ginger Iced Tea, 1,200 LKR, or a Cold Brew Coffee, 1,200 LKR, while coffee is still served, which is until 18:00.
• On some afternoons there is a workshop, where you make a piece of jewellery from shells or paint without hurry. The week is on our events page.
• A slow walk along the water's edge with nothing in your hands.

17:30, dinner with the last light. The sun sets at about six all year, and the kitchen serves until 21:00. Eat early, with the sky changing in front of you. The Sesame Tuna Filet, 6,900 LKR, is seared fast so that the centre stays rare. The Roasted Eggplant with Mushroom Bolognese, 3,400 LKR, is the gentle choice. Share a Grilled Pineapple, 1,700 LKR, to finish.

On Sundays at 6 PM we light the fire for the Bonfire Circle, feet in the sand. It is free. Come as you are.

By half past eight you can be home, tired in the good way.

Can you make it even slower?

Yes. Skip the walk. Have two breakfasts. Stay on the same sunbed for six hours and call it a day well spent. If you would like to see the garden first, it is on the page of our beach club at Turtle Beach.

If you travel with a parent, or you are the parent, we wrote the south coast for older travellers. And if you only want the list for the bag, read what to pack for a beach day.

Good to know

• Ohana is at Turtle Beach, Dikwella, less than five minutes by road from Hiriketiya.
• Breakfast is served from 08:00 to 11:00, lunch and dinner from 11:00 to 21:00, every day.
• Sunbeds are free for the whole day, one for each person, when each person spends 10,000 LKR on food and drinks; otherwise they cost 1,000 LKR an hour each. A towel comes with every sunbed.
• No alcohol is served. Filtered water is on the house, and snorkel masks are lent free.
• Prices are in LKR, plus a 10% service charge.